Process of knitting plated fabrics



1931'- w. J. SCHUBERT PROCESS OF KNITTING PLATED FABRICS Filed June 6, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet l m n a 'p mam/s Q a m c Q 5- no c M10045 5 "Qa we Q5 awe/0m; mg Q5 Q 0 0:

am g1 ,47' F VEYS Dec. 29, 1931. w. .1. SCHUBERT 1,839,123

PROCESS OF KNITTING PLATED FABRICS Filed June a, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 l at entecl Dec. 29, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENToFFICE- WILLIAM J. SCHUBERT, or BETHLEHEM; PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR r STANDARD- 7 TRUMP BROS. MACHINE COMPANY, on WILMINGTON, DELAWARE, A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE p 1 rnocnss' or KNI'rr Ne rLA'rnn FABRICS Application filed June 6,

This invention relates to a process for knitting plated fabrics, and relates specifically to a process for knitting suchrfabrics exhibiting multicolored effects; 7 V

This application is a continuation in part of my application Ser. No. 261,107, filed March 12, 1928.

Plated knitted fabric, formed by feeding.

andfigured effects have been produced in such fabrics by either of two methods.

In one method, the needles or other instrumentalities are manipulated so that the backgaged and knit by the needles while the plating yarn floats on the back of the fabric. The use of this method is limited and unsatisfactory since, unless the floats are very short, the objectionable floated yarns must be cut away from the fabric, this being particularly true in the case of circular knit hosiery.

The second method which is used involves a reversal of the positions of the yarns with i the production of what is knownasreverse plating, both yarns being knit into the loops of the fabric. r V

Each of the above methods offers advantages in the production of designs, inasmuch as different effects are produced. In plating,

i where both yarns are knit into the loops, one

occupies the surface position and isi most prominent. The other yarn is, however, visible so that the face of the fabric has the color of the plating yarn modified or shaded by that of the backing yarn. On the other hand, when a yarn is floated, it is'very substantially concealed so that the color of the face of the fabric is that of the yarn knit into the loops, substantially unmodified by the color of the floating yarn.

Heretofo-re, reverse plating has been practiced only-for the production of two color effects by manipulation of two yarnslor the equivalent of two yarns That is,the manipulation of threeyarns when two are fedto-c lng yarn, only, is at predetermined times en 1929. Serial No. 368,829.

gether so as to effectively act as one. In cases where two yarns are so fed'together as one, theytwist about each vother so that where they are brought to the surface a mottled indefinite appearance is produced. There are,

however, only two distinguishable areas produced, on-emottled and the other having substantially'the color of the third yarn.

While the'float method has been used to produce three effects fromthreeyarns, by reason of the fact that the three yarns have notbeen made toextend continuously along successive courses of the fabric, long. floats have been produced necessitating cuttin of thefloated yarns. Only very simple e cots are, accordingly, practically producible by this method, and the fabric is generally unsat sfactory by reason of the variation of welght due tothe presence of different numbers of yarns indifiierent portions.

The use of both reverse plating and floatmg with the production of three or more effects' has .neverbeen heretofore accomplished either using two or more yarns. Accordingly, triple effects, unless accomplished by yarn changes, have never been obtained except in the unsatisfactory manner outlined in the preceding paragraph, or more complicated manners. V

i The present invention has, as its broad object, the provision of a process of knitting a plated fabric whereby multiple effects are produced by the arrangements of two, three, or more yarns accomplished by novel manip ulationsth'ereof. More specifically the process involves the combination of reverse plating' and floating to produce the novel effects;

the fabric with the loops abnormally enlarged to show the structure s Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic view showing the reversal of the yarns by a sinker;

Fig. 4 is a radial sectional view through a portion of a machine showing the devices used to produce floats;

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view showing the simultanenous production of reverse plating and a float in the same wale;

Fig. 6 is a view partly in plan and partly in section of the subject of Fig. 4

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of an element make clear the numerous variations which will effect the production of intricate designs. This will be followed by a description ofone form of mechanism and the process whereby the fabrics embodied within the invention may be produced.

The fabric which is disclosed diagrammatically in Fig. l and in enlarged detail inv Fig. 2, comprises three interknitted threads, of which all may, as-in the disclosed embodiment, be of different colors, or of which two or all three may be of the same color, resulting, as will be clear hereafter, in the production of either a multicolored fabric or a fabric having areas of different shades or appearances though of substantially the same colors. I

As shown in the figures, the fabric includes four areas m, a, 0 and p of different construction and appearance. The fabric which may be produced onany suitable knitting machine, for example, the circular knitting machine disclosed, includes three yarns a, Z), and c all'of which extend continuously along successive courses of the fabric; that is, the fabric is of substantially the same weight throughout.

In this fabric, the portion m, which, from the manner of production, maybe arbitrarily designated as the normal portion, is made up of stitched loops in eachof which all three yarns occur in plated relationship, yarn a forming the facing or plating yarn, yarn bthe intermediate or middle yarn, and yarn 0 the backing yarn. The color of yarn a: will thus predominate although yarns b and 0 will. to a slight extent be visible and thus modify the appearance of the fabric.

In the second portion n, all three yarns are knit into the loops but in a different manner,this different manner including a change of order; that is, yarn 0 is'i'n the facingposition, yarn-a is in the middle position, and-yarn i Passing to. the third portion 0, it will be seen that the manner of the arrangement of the yarns is changed, this change in manner of, arrangement not only including a change in: order. but also a change of the physical arrangement. In. this portion, yarns a and. a, only, are knit into the loops while yarn a floats. As a consequence the color of this portion is that of b modified by that of c. The floating yarn a is very substantially concealed and, if the fabric is closely knit is, unless the fabric is stretchech.imperceptible from the face.

The fourth portion '39 is similar to portion 0 except that the knitted yarns .7) and c are reversed so that yarn 0 appears on the surface. Here again yarn a is floated so as to be substantially invisible from the face.

It will be understood that in laying out a design, the portions where floats are present are to be relatively narrow so that the floats are unobjectionable and lie along the courses and closely behind the loops.

By way of illustration of the process adapted to produce this fabric, there are herein described those parts which may be added to an ordinary circular knitting machine in order to modify its action for the production of the improved fabric.

The circular knittingmachino comprises a usual needle cylinder 52 carrying sets of needles 4: and at. The sinker dial 6 rotates with this cylinder and serves to support the ordinary sinkers S and also the special sinkers later described, which are used toproduce reverse plating.

Of the needles, needles 4L" are designed to be moved outwardly from the cylinder so as to fail to engage one of'the threads and thus produce floats; In'order to provide forthis movement of the needles at the proper times, those sinkers, either ordinary or special, which are adjacent tothese needles are provided with slot-s l0v in their lower edges. These slots embrace the inner edgesof blocks 12 which are slidable inwardly and outwardly in a roove 1 L formed in the upper outside edge of the needle cylinder. These blocks are provided with slotslG each of which embraces the shank. of-a needle 4. The sinkers have the usual butts-9. In order to move the sinkers outwardly to displace needles at the proper times, a cam 18, pivoted at 20 to the sinker-cap, is provided with an upwardly extending pin 22 arranged to be engaged by a slot in one arm of a lever 24 arranged to be rocked by a cam carried by a lever 26, which is connected by a link 28 to a suitable pattern mechanism. As will be clear from Figs.

.4, 8 and 9, movement of cam 18 by the indownwardly through guide 30 so as'to nor-- mally be taken by the needles.

Guides 32 and 84 arranged in the throat of the latch plate serve to feed threads I) and 0 to the needles in the usual manner. In order to produce proper plating, different tensions are applied to the yarns, the tension on yarn a. which will normally appear upon the face of the fabric being greatest, while yarn b has an intermediate tension and yarn c is either tensioned very slightly or not at all. It will be noted that guide 30 is positioned so that thread a is fed against the needles prior to their approach to the stitching point.

The instrumentalities so far described provide for the floating of yarn a in the areas 0 so that yarnb is brought to the surface while yarn c enters the middle position.

In order to produce reverse plating so as to effect the production of areas 91., special sinkers 36' of the form disclosed in Fig. 3, provided with thin beaks 38 having curved rear edges, are provided. These sinkers have butts 40, while the rear is extended as indicated at 42 so as to normally lie outwardly of the outer ends of the normal sinkers 8. A cam 44 pivotally mounted on the frame may be operated through a suitable pattern mechanism from the full line position shown in Fig. 8 .to the dotted line position shown therein. if this cam is retained on the full line position, the cam follower and ends 42 of the sinlce rs 36 will not be engaged thereby, so that the sinkers will operate in the usual fashion and serve to produce ordinary plating. On the other hand, if the cam is moved to the dotted line position, it engages the follower end 42, thereby projecting the sinker inwardly to the position shown in Fig. 3, so that the yarns in the hook of the needles, in being drawn outwardly over the curved outer end of beak 38, are reversed into the dotted line positions shown on the outer shoulder of the sinker. There is thus produced the reverse plated area mdicated at n in which yarn 0 takes the facing posltion,

yarn a the intermediate position, and yarn b the backing position. By'achange in the positions of the yarn guides so that the yarns are fed in different relationship tothe needles, there may be produced an area in in area 39, though-all will be knit into the loops;

In order to effect the production of portions 29, sinkers 46 similar to sinkers 36 and provided with similar butts 48 and ends 50 are-provided, these sinkers being slotted at 10 similarly to sinl-zers 8 to embrace blocks 12 arranged to act on the adjacent needles 4. In operation, cam 18 is actuated to cause needles 4 to miss engagement with yarn a, and in the subsequent loop forming movements of the needles the yarns b and 0 are reversed with theproduction of the stitches as shown in portion 39,- sinkers 46 being moved in-the same manneras sinkers 36 for such reversal. If the cam 44 is retained in its retracted position, no reversal will occur and portions such as 0 will result.

'VVhile for accuracy of manipulation and to simplify the patternmechanism .it is desirable to use the various .different sinkers as described, it will be obvious that the aroperative. It wi-llfbe further clear that for finework involving, for example, a float across one wale only, the block 12 may be so made as to move one needle only and be actuated by a single sinker.

Various obvious modifications will be ap: parent from the above description of the fabric and the method of its manufacture. As stated in the beginning, the threads need not all be of different colors inasmuch as the various arrangements produce portions of different appearances irrespective of differences in color. For exam le, floated yarns tend to produce an embossed appearance of the overlying looped portions.

While only one yarn has been shown as floated, two yarns or all three may be floated in various areas of the fabric thereby producing differences in texture as well as'color or appearance; iFurthermore, not only the normal plating yarn but any of the others may be floated. i

An interesting ,modification within the scope of the invention may be obtained by eliminating yarn b ands-portion '0 from the fabric disclosed whereby substantially the same appearance is produced as is obtained by making yarns b and'cof the same color.

Considering yarns c and a alone, it will be seen that the fabric has a portion 9?. in which both these threads are knit into loops with c overlying a, a portion 2) in which 0 is knit into loops and overlies a which floats behind such loops, and a. portion m in which a overlies 0. Accordingly, with but two threads used (or two of three being of. the same color), there are produced three varicolored portions: m in which the color of a predominates, modified by the color of 0, n in which the color of c predominates, modified by the color of a, and p in which the pure color of 0 appears since a is imperceptible. It may be noted that in this modification, whether 1) is eliminated or Z) and c are the same, portions 0 and p would become equivalent.

WVhile certain numbers of yarns are-mentioned in the claims, it will beunderstood that this is not intended to exclude the manipulation of ad itional yarns with their incorporation into the same fabric with the yarns specifically mentioned.

The fabric describedhereinis claimed in my copending application Ser. No. 368,828, filed June 6, 1929, Patent No. 1,810,580.

lVhat I claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent is: o

l. The process of producing on a knitting machine aplated knitted fabric, which includes'feeding three threads simultaneously to the circle of needles so that they extend substantially continuously along successive courses of the fabric, and imposing a substantially greater tension ononethread than on either of the other two, and a substantial ly greater tension on one of the last tw threads than on the other.

2. The process of producing on a knitting machine a plated knitted fabric which includes feeding three threads toward the needles, imposing such differential tension on the threads as to causeone thread to normally appear on the face, and the other threads respectively in the center, and on the back, of the fabric, manipulating threads engaged by certain needles to bring a second thread on the face, and the other threads respectivel in the center, and on the back, of the fabric, and manipulating threads engaged byother needles to bring a third thread on the face, and the other threads respectively in the center, and on the back, of the fabric.

3. The process of knitting a three thread fabric which includes feeding three threads toward the needles and knitting them in plated relation while arrangingthem in a different order in different parts of the fabric to bring different threads on. the face of the fabric and in other parts of the fabric knitting two of said threads in platingrelat-ion but in opposite order and floating the remaining thread.

4. The process of knitting a plated fabric upon a circular series of independent needles which includes so knitting into the fabric two threads that normally one thread will be on top of and in plating relation with the other in the knitted fabric, feeding a third thread toward the needles a substantial distance back of the point at which the yarn is drawn down to form loops and causing said third thread to be drawn arcuately across and in frictional contact with the outside of successive needles before reaching the point of yarn drawing movement, whereby said third thread will beheld at the inside of the needle hooks during the yarn drawing movement and will appear on the face of the finished fabric in plating relation to the other two threads.

5. The process of knittin a plated fabric upon a circular series of independent needles which includes so knitting into the fabric two threads that normally one thread will be on top of and in plating relation with the other in the knitted fabric, feeding a third thread toward the needles a substantial distance back of the point at which the yarn is drawn down to form loops and causing, said third thread to be drawn arcuately across and in frictional contact with the outside of successive needles before reaching the point of yarn drawing movement, whereby said third thread will be held at the inside of the needle hooks during the-yarn drawing movement and wil appear on the face of the finished fabric in plating relation to the other two threads, and so menipulating the needles as to cause said third thread tobe engaged by the hooks of certain needles and escape engagement with the hooks of certain needles.

6. The process of knitting a fabric which includes feeding at least two threads towards the needles and knitting them in plated relationshipand oppositely arranging said threads in different parts of the fabric and in still other parts of the fabric causing one of the threads to escape engagement with. the needles.

7. The process of knitting a. fabric upon a circular series of independent needles which includes feeding at least two threads to the needles and so knitting them into the fabric that one thread normally appears in front of and in plated relationship to the other thread, so manipulating said threads at one point in the circle of needles that the second named thread appears in front of and in plated relationship to the first named thread, and at an earlier point in the circle of needles causing one threac to escape engagement with selected needles so that only the remaining thread will be knit into the fabric by such selected needles.

7 8. The process of knitting a fabric upon a circular series of independent needles which includes feeding at least two threads to the needles and so knitting them into the fabric that. one thread: normally appears in front of and in plated; relationship to the other thread,'so"manipulating said threads atone point in the circle of needles thatcthe secon'd named thread, appears 'in f'frontjof and in platedrelationship to the first named thread, and at an earlierpoint in thecircle of needles causing the first named threadto escape, engagement with selected needles so that'only the second named-thread iw'ill be knit into the fabric by such selected needles. v

9; The process of'knittinga fabric upon a circular. series of independent needles which includesfeeding at least two; threads towards the needles at different points in the needle circle, so feeding onethread that it'iwill be engaged by the hooksof alitlie needles,rand so manipulating certain needles and the other thread that the latter is engaged by some of the needles and escapes engagement with other needles. Y

10. The process of knitting a fabric upon a circular series of independent needles which includes feeding at least two the needles at different points in the needle circle, so feeding onethread that it will be engaged by manipulating certain needles and the other thread that the latter is engaged by some of the needles and escapes engagement with other needles, and so manipulating the threads where both are engaged by certain needles to locate one in front of the other in certain parts of the fabric and to reverse such positions in other parts of the fabric.

11. The process of knitting a plated fabric composed of at least three threads upon a circular series of independent needles Which includes feeding two threads at about the stitch forming point, feeding a third thread at an earlier point in the needle circle, and so manipulating the threads that they are located in the fabric in different relative positions in diiierent portions thereof.

12. The process of knitting a plated fabric composed of at least three threads upon a circular series of independent needles which includes feeding two threads at about the stitch forming point, feeding a third thread at an earlier point in the needle circle, and so deflecting needles at said earlier point that the threads are located in the fabric in different relative positions in different portions thereof,

13. The process of knitting a plated fabric composed of at least three'threads upon a series of independent needles which includes at times locating the three threads in one arrangement in the hooks of needles during the loop drawing needle movements, and at other times relatively displacing the three threads during the loop drawing needle movements to locate them in the hooks of certain needles in a different arrangement with the thread which was previously in the other times relatively threads towards the hooks of all the needles, so

outermost position now in the innermost position. I

i 1 4:; The process of knitting a plated fabric composed of at least three threads upon a series of independent needles which includes at'tin es locating arrangement in the the loop drawing needle movements, and at displacing the three drawing needle threads during the loop' movements to locate certain needles 'n a with the thread which was outermost position now in the innermost position, and with the thread which was prediffrent arrangement previously in the the three threads in one hooks of needles during them in the hooks of a,

viously in the innermost position now in the intermediate position. p

15. The process of knitting a plated fabric composed of at least three threads upon a series of independent needles which includes at times locating arrangement in the hooks of needles during the loop drawing needle movements, and at other times locating in the'hooks of certain needles. during the loop drawing needle the, three threads in one movements only those of the said threads which previously occupied the innermost and'outermostpositions.

16, The process of knitting a plated fabric composed'of at lea'st three threads upon a series of independent needles which includes 'a-titimes locating the three threads intone arrangement in the-hooks of needles during the loop drawing needle movements, and at other :times locatingjinthe hooks of certain needles during movements only which previously occupied the innermost and outermost. positions with thethread whichwas previously in the outermost positionpnow in the innermostp'osition.

the loop drawing needle those of the said'threads 17. The-processoflmitting a plated fabric I composed or atleast three threads upon a circular series of independent'needles which includes .attimes locating the three threads infone arrangement in the during the loop drawing needle movements, and at other times locating in the hooks of certain needles during the loop drawing needle movements only" those of the said threadswhichpreviously occupied the intermediate and outermost positions, that thread which" in the iirst mentioned instance occuhooks ofnee'olles V pied the innermost position being knit into* the fabric at intervals so that it extends continuou'sly along successive courses of the fabric.', 7' .7 1 8;, ,The process of knitting a plated fabric composedof at least'three threads upon a circular series of independent needles which includes at timeslocatingthe three threads in'one arrangement in the hooks of needles during the loop drawing needle movements,

and at other tlmes locating in the hooks of certain needles during the loop drawing needle movements only those of the said threads which previously occupied the intermediate and outermost positions with the thread which was previously in. the outermost posi tion now in the innermost. position, that thread which in the first mentioned instance occupied the innermost position being knit into the fabric at intervals so that it extends continuously along successive courses of the fabric- 19. The process of knitting a plated fabric composed of at least three threads upon a' circular series of independent needles which includes at. times locating the three threads in one arrangement inthe hooks of needles during the loop drawing. needle movements, and at other times locating in. the hooks. of certain needles during the loop drawing. needlemovements only those of the said threads which previously occupied. theintermediate and outermost positions with the thread which. was previously in. the. outermost position still in the outermost. position, that thread which in the first mentioned instance occupied; the innermost position being knit into the'fabric at intervals so that it'eXtends continuously along successive courses of the fabric 20; The process of. knitting a plated. fabric composed of at least three. threadsupon a series of independent needles which includes at-times locating the three threadsin one bring each of said threads individually on the face of thefabric in plated stitches in different parts thereof;

23; The processof producing on a knitting machine a plated knitted fabric having at least three threads all extending continuous- .ly along successive courses of the fabric, including feeding three threads towards the needles, andiso manipulating the threads and so abnormally manipulating certain sinkers as to bring each of said threads individually on the face of the fabric in plated stitches in different parts thereof' In testimony of which invention, I have hereunto set my hand, at Bethlehem, Pa, on. this 3rd dayof June, 1929;,

WILLIAM J. SCHUBERT.

arrangementin the hooks of needles during the loopdrawing needle movements, at other times relatively displacing the three threads during. the loop drawing. needle movements to locate them in the hooks of. certain needles in a differentarrangement, and at still. other times locating in the hook of certain. needles during the loop drawing needle movements only those of the said threads which previously occupied the intermediate and. outermost positions.

21. The process of knittinga plated fabric composed. of at least. three threads upona circular series of independent needles which includes at times locating the three threads inone arrangement in the hooks of needles during the loop; drawing needle movements, and atother times locating; in the hooks of certain needles during the loop drawing needle movements-only those of the said threads which previously occupied the intermediate and outermost positions, the selective inclusion or exclusion of the other thread being determined by causing the hooks of the needles to move in either of alternative paths prior to the loop drawing movements thereof.

22. The process of producing on a knitting machine a plated knitted fabric which includes feedingthree threads towards the needles, operating predetermined needles in predetermined courses to produce plated stitches, and so manipulating the threads and so abnormally manipulating certain needles as to 

